Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
